Next: PUAVL Packing Tutorial - Nylon
PUAVL Packing Tutorial - Spectra Shock Cord
This tutorial shows you how the pack the PUAVL canister when Spectra Shock Cord is used. In this tutorial this is the PUAVL-4-120-SUL canister. If your canister has Nylon shock cord then the method is similar up to the point where the shock cord is prepared. However the nylon shock cord is not Z-folded the same way the Spectra chock cord is done. If you have a canister with the Nylon shock cord then follow this tutorial to Step 40. Then go to the PUAVL-6 Packing Tutorial - Nylon Shock Cord to continue.
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Step 1Here are the items needed to pack the PUAVL canister. For this tutorial we are packing the IFC-120-SULR parachute into a 4"D canister.
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Step 2First place the piston into the canister. This seals the gas under the parachute. NOTE: The piston is critical to the operation of the canister. If the piston is left out there is a good chance the parachute will not eject, or the ejection will not be good.
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Step 4Next push the chute liner into the canister. Push all the way down to the canister bottom.
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Step 6Another view. Note that one side of the liner overlaps the other. When you fold the liner over the outside of the canister the same overlap outside.
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Step 7If you have a new factory folded parachute remove from the bag. If you don't first be sure the chute is already folded properly. See the Help Page - How to Fold the Iris Parachute. Un-tape the lines and lay them out.
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Step 9Unfold the canopy edges so it lays out in a trapezoid shape. Use some weights to hold the skirt and the lines in place.
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Step 11Next we need to attach the Chute Liner leash to the crown loop on the parachute. Stretch out the leash from the liner bag.
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Step 12Peel back layers of fabric to the skirt and locate the top loop. It is near the crown of the chute, which is pulled down near the skirt when the chute is folded.
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Step 16Fold the canopy back the way it was. The seams between the gores fold into the center.
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Step 18Work on one seam at a time, alternating between the left side and right side.
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Step 20All done and looks the same as before we pulled down the fabric. Pull the leash so it goes down the center of the chute between the seams.
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Step 21Re-orient the weights (or perhaps sticks) so they are placed to divide the folded canopy skirt end into thirds.
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Step 23Now fold over the other side. The canopy is now 1/3 the width it was before.
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Step 25Pull out the weights and again place them on the skirt to keep it in place.
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Step 26Rotate around the skirt so the end with the leash is now at the end of the table.
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Step 27I use a stool now and place the canister below the table edge and under the skirt. This makes z-folding the canopy into the canister easier. Drop the leash into the bottom of the chute release.
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Step 29Start to z-fold the canopy starting at the top into the bottom of the chute liner and canister. Fold about 6 to 7 inches at a time alternating directions.
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Step 31At this point I like to put the canister up on the table to finish packing.
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Step 32With the canopy in the liner now pull up the liner sides while holding the canopy firmly in the canister. This pulls out any wrinkles in the chute liner.
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Step 33Now z-fold the lines. I use a length that when folded will just wrap around the inside of the canister. For a 4" canister the folds should be about 7" long. Use longer for the 5" and 6" canisters.
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Step 34Now curl the folded lines and put them on top of the canopy. I orient the Kevlar bridle so the end is positioned at the slit in the skirt with about 2" outside.
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Step 40Then put the weights on top to keep it all in place while we prepare the main shock cord.
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Step 41Take one end of the main shock cord end loop and put it through the Kevlar bridle.
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Step 43Pull the main shock cord all the way through the first loop. Cinch the cord tightly around the Kevlar bridle.
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Step 44Now z-fold the main shock cord similar to the shroud lines. Use the same length so they can be just folded into the canister. NOTE: Leave 3x the canister length unfolded at the end. This will not be packed in the canister and allow for external connection.
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Step 45Now remove the weights and again curl the z-folded lines around the inside top of the canister. Leave the unfolded length out.
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Step 48Thread the loose end of the main shock cord through the opening of the canister lid.
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Step 49Place the cap in place, push any shock cord or liner material inside the canister to it's not pinched by the cap inside shoulder.
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Step 50Make note of the holes in the canister for the sheer pins (nylon screws). Align the cap so the holes in the cap align with the canister holes and push into place. NOTE: Some holes in the canister are not drilled, this is on purpose. Do NOT drill the remaining canister holes.
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Step 51I use a small tool to align one of the cap holes with the canister. Once aligned insert the nylon sheer pins through the cap into the canister. They will fit snugly.
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Step 53Again check the cord length to make sure it's 3x the canister length. If it's a little longer that is OK. Pull out some cord if it's too short.
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Step 55I like to tape the folded line in place. Use masking tape or similar material that will easily break away when the parachute is ejected. The length of shock cord allows the parachute to clear the canister before the cord inside starts to unfurl. It helps with the performance of the parachute to achieve the highest possible ejection velocity.
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Step 56Another view, everything neat and tidy. Other ways to secure the extra shock cord are also ok. In any case there should not be anything blocking the canister top and the extra cord outside needs to be free to unfurl first upon parachute ejection.
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Step 58All done. Be sure to always GROUND TEST!!! Don't fly and find out you did something wrong.